Vanilla In Perfumery
Vanilla In Perfumery : This spice, native to Central America, continues to captivate consumers and perfumers alike with its fragrant molecules and oriental scents.
And even if people try to destroy its reputation, vanilla remains an allegorical raw material for perfumery.
Vanilla arrived on the island of Madagascar, where French colonial ships were held in the 17th century, and on Reunion Island in the early 19th century. It then took the name of « vanilla bourbon » from the name of the island before the French Revolution.
VANILLA AND PERFUME, A CENTURY OF LOVE
Brought back from Mexico in the 16th century, vanilla was introduced to the Spanish court in 1580, but it was not brought back to Europe until the 17th century. It was first used for its medicinal properties. It is only in the 19th century that perfumers are interested in their fragrances, and begin to decline their fragrances.
Vanilla arrived on the island of Madagascar, where French colonial ships were held in the 17th century, and on the island of Reunion in the early 19th century. It then took the name « vanilla bourbon » from the name of the island before the French Revolution. The vanillin molecule that gives vanilla is the most recognizable. In the 19th century, a natural perfume was extracted by drying them. Gradually, perfumers began to introduce synthetic vanilla flavors.
The vanilla bean is dried and then scraped for extraction. The vanilla scent knows how to seduce women with a sweet and sophisticated note. Perfumers are not mistaken and often add vanilla to their creations, even in a way that fascinates both women and men.
WHAT IS VANILLA?
Vanilla pods, commonly known as « beans », are thin, slightly shiny stems. These pods come from the flower of the vanilla orchid family.
To extract the full aroma of vanilla, you must be dedicated to this spice. Its cultivation and preparation require many months. This is why vanilla is one of the most expensive spices in the world.
Vanilla beans are picked fresh with the vanilla flowers. It is only after months that the pods reveal their full flavor. The ripening process can take up to 34 months until after the vanilla crystals have formed, the scent of the pods is revealed.
The vanilla beans will be extracted with a volatile solvent, giving birth to the absolute vanilla. A process which seems long, but the euphoria of the one who exhales its perfume, will be only multiplied by ten.
VANILLA PRODUCTION: THE COVETED BROWN GOLD
Today, the biggest production of vanilla is guaranteed in Indonesia and Madagascar. The Malagasy countries exploit this brown gold without knowing that vanilla beans are worth 50 times more than in the West. And what is surprising is that, the production of vanilla is not for the inhabitants of Madagascar. Achat de vanille.
FROM VANILLA TO VANILLIN
Vanillin is the most important molecule that composes vanilla. In 1920, that this odorous molecule was discovered was manufactured by chemical synthesis.
It finds its place in perfumery this year, it will be necessary to wait 1930 so that it invests in the food sector. It is used, from an economic point of view, as a replacement for vanilla of natural origin. Moreover, the high prices, almost crazy, pushed manufacturers and perfumers towards this alternative.
PERFUMERS UNDER THE SPELL OF VANILLA
The greatest perfumers like Guerlain, Hermès and Le Labo cannot resist it. Aphrodisiac, sensual, disconcerting, spicy, mysterious and wild, the perfumes of vanilla spills here and there its essence, seeking to dominate the scents.
True prerogative of the creators of perfume, it knows how to be docile and untamable at the same time. Sometimes, it will have a wise story to tell, and other times more rebellious, it will reveal itself mystical, almost inaccessible. And if perfumers and consumers are infatuated, it is simply because vanilla perfume is creative, it adapts, reveals itself, rediscovers. It offers to the creator of perfume the audacity to embroider of it new fragrances.
True prerogative of the creators of perfume, she knows how to be docile and untamable at the same time. Sometimes she will have a wise story to tell, and other times more rebellious, she will reveal herself mystical, almost inaccessible. And if perfumers and consumers are infatuated, it is simply because vanilla perfume is creative, it adapts, reveals itself, rediscovers. It offers to the creator of perfume the audacity to embroider of it new fragrances.
And for good reason, it adapts perfectly to countless notes to reveal an unexpected side. It often cohabits with spices to reveal warmth and sensuality. This is why it is found in the majority of oriental fragrances. Combined with consumer favorites such as gourmand notes of caramel, licorice, vanilla perfume becomes soft and mellow.
This cult ingredient also blends well with the woody family of scents to create a rich, velvety juice. Finally, with floral or citrus heart notes, vanilla will lead to a fresh signature to be worn at all types of times/seasons.
